Fades Are Among the Most Versatile (and Popular) Masculine Haircuts—Here's Why

Close up of actors Paul Mescal (left) and John Boyega (right) with fade haircuts

Getty Images / Byrdie

Among the many popular haircuts for men, the fade might just be the most versatile: It's timeless, smooth, and adaptable. No matter your hair type or personal style, there is a fade that will meet your needs. 

But as we all know, a haircut being right for many people doesn't mean it's the best cut for everyone. We consulted three hair experts—Wade Menendez, Lauren Owens, and Darius Davie—to get the 411 on fade haircuts, from what defines them to maintenance. Before you book your appointment, read on for what they told us.

Meet the Expert

  • Wade Menendez is an experienced traveling barber, entrepreneur, master educator, and hair unit expert. 
  • Lauren Owens is an award-winning barber and owner of the Legends Only barbershop in Atlanta. 
  • Darius Davie is a licensed men's hairstylist and the founder and CEO of Groom Guy.

What Is A Fade Haircut?

A fade can be defined by shadow graduation of the hair, typically starting with the skin at the base and smoothly transitioning to more hair as you reach the crown, Davie tells us.

With that relatively broad definition, it probably isn't surprising to learn that there are countless variations on the cut to choose from. "There are so many different types of fades," says Menendez. Fades come in a variety of lengths, and some set strict boundaries while others cast subtle shadows. There are high fades, mid fades, and low fades.

  • A "high skin fade" may almost reach the crown of your head before it gets longer, which leaves a lot of exposed skin.
  • A "medium skin fade" will begin to get longer right around the middle of your head.
  • A "low skin fade" reveals very little skin—just leaving short hairs that get longer as they run up to the crown of your head.

Some fades have razor-sharp lines, while others are a bit less defined and more casual.

There are burst fades—which provide a fauxhawk look—and mid-tapers that follow the natural curvature of the head behind the ear (and last longer between barbershop appointments). The gentleman taper version of a fade has a "low dark theme" that can be appealing to those who do not want the stark look of a bald fade.  "A lot of people do that when they have an afro or a Dark Caesar, and they want a low fade pretty much around the hairline," explained Menendez. The look is "very low" and presents as a "shadow." 

Some people choose to get partial fades on one side of their head and another style on the other. Others maintain a full fro, braids, twists, or locs above them. 

Close up of actor John Boyega with a fade haircut, against an out of focus orange background

Gareth Cattermole/Getty Images

Picking a Fade Haircut

Because there are so many different types of fade haircuts, our experts say there are options that fit every face shape and hair type. "The fade honestly can go for anybody," said Menendez.

The type of fade that works best for clients "really depends on the texture and length of hair on top of their head," according to Owens. Davie says you will want to consider the condition of your scalp since it will be exposed (to some degree) with this cut. "Do your part to understand your scalp," advised Davie. "If you [experience] irritation, redness, or anything that can irritate the scalp, you may want to consider how far and to what degree you want your fade to be."

Consulting with a licensed barber professional can help you figure out what your hair type and scalp require. 

Choosing the Right Barber For Your Fade

Depending on their expertise, your go-to stylist or barber might not be the best person to usher you into the faded look. "Different barbers have different specialties," notes Menendez. He recommends checking out your potential barber's portfolio before fully committing. "Instagram is a great tool... find out if you see yourself on that page," he explains. "Everybody has different techniques." Owens and Menendez each have virtual portfolios that feature haircuts they've given people with different hair types. 

It is also helpful to arrive prepared with an example for your barber to use as a guideline for how you want your final style to turn out. "When consulting with your barber about your hairstyle, it is best to always have a reference picture," Owens says; it will help alleviate "confusion about how you want your hair to look." 

Communicating with your barber also helps them understand your day-to-day routine so they can recommend a style that works for and with your lifestyle.

Actor Paul Mescal with a fade haircut, curly at the top of his crown

Cindy Ord/VF23/Getty Images for Vanity Fair

How to Maintain a Fade

Davie recommends that clients come in about every two and a half weeks for a touch-up. That "is typically when new growth starts to show a little bit," he explains.

There are tools on the market designed to help consumers touch up their haircuts at home, like The Cut Buddy ($10). Owens recommends Bevel's Trimmer ($200) and Shave Kit ($90) for maintaining hair at home or between barber appointments. Just make sure to protect and care for your tools; you can keep them clean with disinfectant sprays like Barbicide ($9) or Clippercide ($13). 

You can also lower your maintenance upfront by choosing a more low-maintenance cut. Menendez says you can start with a bald fade; these cuts tend to maintain their shape as they grow out. "It's a situation where as it grows in, it looks pretty cool," he said. 

The Final Takeaway

Each fade is different, and customization is the key to getting the best look for you. Just keep in mind they generally require a hefty amount of maintenance; they aren't the best option for "those who aren't looking to visit the shop often," Davie tells us. But if you and your barber find the fade that works for your hair type, head shape, and lifestyle, you'll likely find that upkeep completely worth it.

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