Texturizing
A razor (with guard) or shear-point techniques can be used to give the haircut texture by cutting the ends of the hair in obvious, varying lengths. Texture is desirable in haircuts that are worn spiked or disheveled. The razor (with guard) is used to strip the ends of the hair between the blade and the thumb to create the varying lengths. When pulling the hair between the razor and thumb, hold the razor at an angle and use a scooping motion. The shear-point technique is used to cut the ends of the hair at an angle (or even snipping out alternating pieces) to add texture. Perform these techniques only after hands-on instruction from a qualified instructor.
Finishing
Many stylists will spend a great deal of time making sure a haircut is well blended and even, but skimp on the finishing. A great haircut can be completely destroyed by poor finishing (a bad haircut can also be made respectable with good finishing). It is critical to make sure all lines (the arch around the ear and the neckline) are clean and neat. Most haircuts will also benefit from slight tapering or beveling around the bottom edges. When doing sideburns, stand in front of the client and look him directly in the face to ensure evenness. Check to make sure bangs are straight as well.
Necklines: Blocked or Tapered?
Many stylists and barbers will take the shortcut of blocking the client’s hairline. Often, this can be a disservice to the client. A tapered haircut will give a wide neck a slimmer appearance and will look neater as the cut grows out. On a blocked haircut, the neck hair will grow out below the block and the client will have a line in the hair on the back of his head. A tapered haircut blends with the hair as it grows out. Blocking can give a slim neck more balance, so it is often a good option. When blocking, the hair should be blocked as low on the neck as possible so there will be less hair below the line as the cut grows out.
Clipper Guards
Many in the industry are firmly against the use of clipper guards. The main argument against guards is that anyone can snap on a guard and give a haircut, so the feeling is that many clients will attempt to cut their own hair. The fact is, however, that most clients will not be able to get professional looking results at home. Only those trained in cutting hair will be able to accomplish the proper finishing, blending, and tapering needed to make a clipper cut look professional.
As for technique, there are a few things to keep in mind if you choose to use guards. When using a clipper with guards, follow the anchor-pivot-suspend technique and cut against the growth pattern. Avoid cutting at an angle as this will create small lines because of the way the guard separates the hair before it feeds into the blades. Next, make sure to go over each section of the hair a few times to ensure all hair is cut. Avoid forcing the hair into the cutting blades with a comb or your hands as this will create lines of demarcation. Always comb the hair before each stroke, but make sure the comb is out of the way before the clipper runs through it. Finally, avoid guards that leave the hair longer than 1/2 inch. Clippers will only effectively cut hair when there is enough tension on the hair to force it into the cutting blades. Larger guards do not allow enough tension and, thus, will leave much of the hair un-cut.
Above are but a few of my thoughts on appropriate techniques for cutting men's hair. Again, there is no right or wrong way to approach a haircut as long as the end result is technically solid and the client is thrilled. Happy cutting!
